Put the engine back in and hooked everything back up, Now in addition to having a turbocharged engine I also have an engine bay that I am not flat out embarassed to show to people. Putting the engine back in was easiest without the alternator, power steering pump, and A/C attached. The transmission mount is a pain to put back on, as are the hoses that run to and from the heater core. I also found it useful to remove the bumper as it lets you move the hoist more twards the rear of the car.
That's it, the conversion is done save for the exhaust (who needs a downpipe, cat, muffler and all that crap?) which I will get around to this spring. Thanks for reading this far. I hope this helped at least someone with questions and concerns, thats most of the reason why I spent the time to write it. As for the question of how much boost you can run, stock boost (6.8PSI) on a completely stock N/A engine was my limit. I was getting very slight detonation on 93 octane gas, with 10% octane booster additive (Toluene, from Sherwin Williams) it went away. You can install the turbo car's detonation sensor (and wire it in if you have a NA wiring harness), or retard the timing at the distributor. I backed out about a degree and had no issues on 93 octane with no additives. Every engine is different.
Race gas is awesome stuff. 110 octane leaded race gas is available at many places for under $4/gal. With a 50/50 mix with 93 octane I was able safely to boost 15PSI with no intercooler. I backed this off to 13PSI just to be safe on the fuel side of things. Then I ran it on a mustang chassies dyno (which are very accurate compared to most dynos, yet tend to read slightly low). I put down 240RWHP and 320RWTQ at 13PSI. Not bad, but it did not end there... it just keeps going. Check out the rest of this site for the other modifications.
